Nobelhart und Schmutzig
Nobelhart and Schmutzig
When red-bearded pop star of the German wine scene Billy Wagner gave up his sommelier job at the wine bar Rutz, it was clear that his planned restaurant would be far from mainstream. But even that is a slight understatement. In Nobelhart & Schmutzig simply nothing functions as you know it from other Michelin-starred restaurants: Seated in small groups around a long bar, guests can enjoy a ten-course meal featuring only plants and animals from the surroundings of Berlin. Seasonal and what nature offers, willingly preserved, dried and cured.
“Brutally local” is how Billy Wagner and his kitchen chef Micha Schäfer describes their concept, which is why pepper, lemon and also chocolate are banned from the menu – instead root vegetables such as Teltower Rübchen command the same respect as zander from Lake Müritz.
Like it or not, for the Michelin reviewers it was definitely worth a star. The wine list, too, has been awarded two (out of a total of three) glasses by Wine Spectator. The wines are chosen on the same principles as the ingredients in the kitchen. For Billy Wagner, it is all about recognizing the people behind his products.
A wine without a sense of place cannot be good, is his credo. His thumb-thick wine list is divided into three chapters: Fruity wines, Terroir wines and Signature wines, with an excellent collection of white wines from Germany. Those who still cannot find something they like can even bring their own bottle: The better the wine, the lower the corkage – but beware! The proprietor decides.